Slow Times In Tokyo
Slow times in Tokyo at first sounds a little odd.
When I first think of big cities like Tokyo, London, New York, or Hong Kong, the first thing that pops into my head is speed. Images of clock hands racing ever faster, speeded up video of pedestrian crossings - see our Shinagawa River Of People video for an example - public transport that's always on the go. At first glance they're a melting pot of speed!
Yet, when you get behind the scenes and get on with the daily necessities of life, time suddenly sticks on the brakes. Slow times in Tokyo is a mix of the good and the bad. As with all things there's balance.
Frustrating Tokyo
When you live and work in any city there are times when you just have to get from A to B. Tokyo is certainly no exception but it's geared up to fulfil it's promise of being one of the most efficient and convenient cities in the world. That is... until you add the human element into the mix!
Whether it's the giggling high school student, the mum or dad desperately trying to hang onto their brood, or the salaryman with a hangover from the night before, the stop dead in the headlight moments have always been a cause of frustration for me.
I'm talking about those times when you're slotting nicely into the flow of human bodies and lining up your ticket so you can go get on your Tokyo train. You've timed it to perfection because you know your train will arrive at 07:38 and pull out on time.
Then it happens. Slow times in Tokyo! The person in front slams on the brakes. They're right in front of the ticket barrier and now they're rooting around in their pockets or their bag to try and find the ticket. I mean please! This is rush hour for goodness sake!
Mellow Tokyo
On the good side of slow times in Tokyo, my first year here was a mellow and chilled out time for me. I made friends with some Japanese DJs who loved creating, playing and dancing to ambient melodies and rhythms.
I was invited to a house party on the hillside in Kamakura with a VJ in the garden and a DJ in the house. At 4:30 a few of us (there were around 60 at the party in total) went down to the beach to watch the sunrise and dream our dreams. There were a few giggles as well : )
Other slow times in Tokyo included camping out in a forest in Ibaraki near Owari beach (By the way, I know these aren't Tokyo but it's where I was living while all this was happening). There were small stages set up in the forest and you just danced, listened, talked and laughed all at your own pace. It was a wonderful time when time could be forgotten and you just did your own thing. I guess this is the hippy chick in me!
Bureaucratic Tokyo!
True the world over, red tape and bureaucracy is certain to slow even the fastest city down as it makes its way from sunrise to sundown. Tokyo and Japan are no exception. Ever gone to open a new bank account? Need to register a change of address? Then there's Japan visa renewals, re-entry permits and if you have a new addition to the family, expect to make several visits! Welcome to slow times in Tokyo.
I know of course that some bureaucracy is unavoidable, but at times it does seem as though its meant to be prohibitive. I guess its something I've struggled with wherever I've lived. Better just to count to 10 and get through this peacefully than let it wind you up. It's only you that's going to suffer after all!
Ghostly Tokyo
As a capital city consisting of over 12 million in it's center, and around 28 million within its 'Greater' confines, Tokyo is a crowded place. Speed x density of people often seems to make things appear to be going even faster than they really are.
At certain times of year though, Tokyo almost takes on the characteristics of a ghost town. All quite bizarre when you're used to the frantic speed of the rat race.
I'm talking in particular about Golden Week, with the same thing happening to a slightly lesser degree during Obon and Japanese New Year celebrations.
If you happen to work during these national holidays and use the public transport to get around, the change is amazing! From a jam packed train at 07:38 in the morning where I'm lucky not to be getting bits of someone else's hair in my mouth or an elbow in my back, suddenly I have space. Not only that, I might even, no... probably will, get a seat!
It's wonderful while it lasts but is very strange when you're used to the usual morning madness.



