Oshogatsu
Oshogatsu is the period from December 29 to January 4 when Japanese people celebrate New Year.
The official date for Japanese New Year is January 1st, but the days before and after are also full of festivities.
As a tourist, you should be aware that most businesses and shops will be closed during this time and the cost of travel can double or even triple compared to other times of year.
If you will be in Tokyo during this time, make sure you book in advance and carry cash. Sometimes it's hard to get money out of the ATMs at New Year and many Tokyo banks are closed.
Important Oshogatsu Tips For Tourists
As a tourist, you should be aware that most businesses and shops will be closed during this time and the cost of travel can double or even triple compared to other times of year.
If you will be in Tokyo during this time, make sure you book in advance and carry cash. Sometimes it's hard to get money out of the ATMs at New Year and many Tokyo banks are closed.
This happened to me in my early days here and it's not nice being stuck without cash in your hand and no way of getting your hands on it. It was sitting in my bank account but there was no way of accessing it!
Bonenkai - End Of Year Party
Another tradition is an event called a 'bonenkai', or end of year party. Many companies hold a bonenkai for their employees while students, housewives, friends, etc. form their own groups to celebrate.
These are loud affairs with as much drinking and as much eating as you can handle. Tokyo izakayas, the local type of Japanese pub, fill up quickly with people from all walks of life.
During the month of December, it is often necessary to book a table for larger groups of people as many places will be full to capacity. Enjoy it - it's a lot of fun!
Cleaning And Eating!
In the weeks running up to Oshogatsu, Japanese houses are cleaned from top to bottom.
The year end is the time when you say goodbye to all the bad things that may have happened in the last year and you prepare for a whole new beginning - starting from Japanese New Year.
Part of this process is removing all the dust and dirt that would be associated with the year that's coming to it's end.
There are many kinds of traditional Japanese food at Oshogatsu. Mochi, or sticky rice, is one of the most well known.
Mochi is boiled rice that's been mashed using water and a wooden mallet until it forms a sticky pulp. It's then molded into cakes or bun shapes and is usually stuffed with some kind of bean paste in the middle.
A word to the wise. Due to the texture of the mochi, it can stick in your throat when you swallow it. There are always some cases of people dying by this unfortunate means every year - so be careful!
The picture below shows a very special kind of mochi which is made for New Year called kagami mochi. It consists of 2 rice balls with an orange sitting on top.
The kagami mochi is a decorative food with a symbolic meaning. It is usually placed in the family shrine during the Oshogatsu period as part of the ritual to bring good luck in the New Year.
I have heard different reasons behind the origins of this decoration. My favorite is that the two rice balls represent the exit of one year and the entrance of the next. The orange on top, a 'daidai', literally translates as 'generations'. It is supposed to represent the continuation of the family and the generations to come.
On Japanese New Years Eve it is traditional to eat toshikoshi noodles.
Japanese New Year Traditions
Another food that is eaten during Japanese New Year is 'osechi-ryori'.
In times gone by, cooking was banned during the period of Oshogatsu. All food had to be prepared before the celebrations started so that everyone could down tools and keep the house clean throughout the holiday period.
Osechi-ryori is basically food that is sweet, sour or dried that will keep without the need for refrigeration for a few days. In these modern times, Japanese people start ordering their ready prepared boxes of osechi-ryori from supermarkets and department stores as early as October.

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