Mifune Toshiro Izakaya - Roppongi

The Mifune Toshiro izakaya is a pleasantly understated venue situated across the road from the Roppongi Hills complex.

It's just a couple of minutes walk from the Hibiya line metro exit number 2 so it's easy to find.

Mifune Theme And Concept

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Themed on the late, great Japanese Actor Toshiro, Mifune (1920-1997), Mifune is nothing short of legendary. He is perhaps most famous for his roles in films by equally legendary director Kurosawa, Akira including Seven Samurai and Rashomon.

Western audiences may also remember him in the TV adaptation of James Clavell's classic novel Shogun, in the role of the daimyo lord and future Shogun "Tokunaga" (based upon the historical figure Tokugawa Ieyasu).

The Mifune Toshiro izakaya, along with proposed expansion of establishments in the chain, is the result of a collaboration between Watanabe Hiyoshi’s Tokyo Restaurants Factory and Mifune Productions.

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Our First Impressions

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We were afraid that such a themed izakaya might be little more than a cheap attempt to cash in on the fame of Mifune Toshiro resulting in a Disney-like "samurai Japan" atmosphere. Being a fan of Mifune's films, however, we simply couldn't resist trying the place for ourselves.

According to Ryori-ya Mifune's website, the izakaya's decor is designed to recall the atmosphere and simple elegance of Mifune Toshiro and his famous samurai movies. The menu consists of traditional Japanese dishes inspired by the films as well as Mifune's own favourite meals.

The website itself is informative although the translations for the English language pages are not the best. Regardles though it's great that this information is available in English, in whatever form, making it possible for visitors to find out about this Tokyo izakaya.

Upon seeing the izakaya's facade my fears were immediately allayed. Obviously fairly recently constructed, the style is all "old Japan" bringing to mind a samurai hall or traditional inn with dark stained wood heavy beams framing the entrance. An illuminated shop sign bearing the name "Mifune" draws attention while an open menu, complete with photos of the famous actor in his "Yojimbo" role, lays upon a stand in the entrance way.

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What's Inside This Themed Izakaya

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Before the sliding front doors hangs a noren curtain with the Mifune family symbol. Stepping in, we were greeted with the usual chorus of "irasshai" (welcome). After removing our shoes we were led up onto the raised wooden floor of dark, unpolished wood past a well proportioned L-shaped counter of fresh pale wood piled with baskets of eda-mame (green beans) and lemons framing the open kitchen and into a spacious main dining area.

The interior of the Mifune Toshiro is dark. Low-level lighting with walls and ceiling of the same dark stained wood as the floors lend a tastefully subdued, almost medieval feel to the place. To the rear of the dining area hangs another noren bearing the Mifune family symbol, and to the left, near the washrooms, large sliding doors painted with a floral design open on to a koshitsu (private dining room).

An unusually (for Japan) high ceiling added to the sense of space, as did the fact that rather than being crowded with tables, only four large solid tables are in the room. On the far left, separated from the main dining area by wooden screens, were several more tables, with others lining the right side of the izakaya on the far side of the kitchen counter. And not a film poster or photo of Mifune Toshiro in sight!

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Getting Settled And Ordering Food

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A Mifune Toshiro waitress dressed in dark blue monpe trousers and brown jimbei smock took our drink orders in a friendly and courteous manner, before bringing an o-toshi (appetizer) of tuna and horenso (spinach) in a creamy looking light-tasting stock. Simple and tasty, with plenty of horenso, my only complaint was that the tuna looked like it was straight out of the tin.

After ordering a second glass of chilled beer, we selected some dishes from the menu that offered a broad range of classic izakaya food with an emphasis on sashimi (slices of raw fish) and kushiyaki (grilled skewered morsels) in particular.

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Always a fantastic compliment to beer or sake we ordered our usual pickles (tsukemono), this time in the form of nasu (aubergine) tsukemono with yellow karashi (mustard) that proved to be mind-numbingly hot. This was followed by a large skewer of tonkatsu (fried pork in breadcrumbs) and onion served upon a bed of uncooked sliced cabbage with yet more mustard. We were particularly impressed with the simplicity of this dish. The pork, wonderfully chunky pieces, was succulent and not too oily.

Looking at the menu we wondered what the "Hidden Fortress" nabe (hot pot bearing the name of one of the Kurosawa films in which Mifune Toshiro starred) would be like, and made a mental note to order the "Yojimbo" onigiri (rice ball) later in the meal.

For salad, we ordered the 'sengiri yasai to niku-miso temaki sarada.' This consisted of slices of fresh, crisp daikon (radish), cucumber, carrot and fried noodles served in a large flat bamboo basket with leaves in which to wrap the vegetables. Niku-miso (meat flavoured miso paste) added extra taste to the resulting vegetable wraps. A colourfully attractive dish, it was also a good size.

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Trying Out The Sake And The Bathroom!

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As usual, I found myself hankering after the taste of sake and so selected the Kikkyo, produce of Aichi prefecture. The waitress had been unable to read the kanji when I asked the name of this particular sake, but with a giggle she rushed off to ask a more knowledgeable Mifune Toshiro staff. I had to wait a little too long for it to arrive but when it did it proved to be neither too sweet not too dry. A nice woody taste with hints of honey.

Next came the 'yasai to chiken no mushi seiro,' the first disappointment of the evening. One of the pricier items on the menu it was nothing more than a mundane selection of chicken and vegetables, potato, carrot, broccoli and cauliflower, steamed in a bamboo steamer (seiro) and accompanied by a dipping sauce of miso and mayonnaise. Uninspiring, and rather small, it is probably best avoided.

At this point I decided to check out the bathroom. Here, finally, the Mifune Toshihiro theme was in full force. The walls covered in framed photos of the great man in his most famous roles. Certainly more entertaining than staring at blank walls while relieving ones self!

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The Main Course And Dessert

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The next sake I tried was from Shiga prefecture, the Shichi Hon Yari, Seven Halberds, which proved to be fairly dry to the taste.

Still hungry we decided that the Bakudan Kurokke, bomb croquette, sounded interesting. We were told it was a large croquette filled with egg served on sliced cabbage with Bulldog sauce. As it turned out, this was not a bad dish, but not quite as good as it sounded, and nowhere near as good as it looked. The egg was soft but the taste of the yolk failed to infuse the croquette itself.

Next came the 'Shime no Yojimbo Setto,' a set comprising of a large onigiri (rice ball), pickled daikon, and a large bowl of steaming, meaty tasting miso soup filled with mushrooms, carrot, konnyaku (jelly-like food made from the starch of devil's tongue), gobo (burdock) and bacon. The soup was wonderful, and the rice ball, although simple, was excellent when some of the course salt provided with it was sprinkled on top.

Finally, for desert, vanilla ice cream served on a bed of anko (sweet red beans) covered with molasses. A tasty end to an enjoyable evening.

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Would We Go Back?

Ryori-ya Mifune Toshiro is well worth a visit. A nice change from some of the more raucous attractions on offer in Roppongi.

The overall style and atmosphere is definitely Japanese and evokes something of the flavour of the settings for Kurosawa's films and the roles that Mifune Toshiro played in them. Indeed, the decor, atmosphere and service at this izakaya were all very good.

In terms of the food itself, we couldn't help feeling that it was a bit pedestrian. Not bad, but certainly nothing exceptional. Considering that our meal came to around ¥6,000 per person, better can be had for the same price elsewhere. Still, we enjoyed our surroundings and would certainly make another visit if we happen to be in the area.

Check out the Mifune website for more information and for a map to the izakaya.

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Meet The Author - Dave Perry

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We first met Dave online and became a fan of his blog Yumeji's Theme because of his izakaya reviews. In his blog, Dave writes about a variety of topics related to life in Japan along with cultural aspects of the society.

Dave is now our resident izakaya reviewer and we're really happy to have him on board. His recommendations are always reliable and just a little off the normal visitor trail. Thanks Dave!

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