Ebisu: A Tokyo Place With A Star Sign

What's your star sign? And do you match it?

Me? I'm a Pisces. The dreamer and creator. My partner, Stuart? He's a Gemini. And yeah, true to form, he sometimes definitely has two sides! Now I've never heard of places having a star sign, but I'm sure if it was possible to pinpoint the birthday of Ebisu, it would definitely join Stuart as a Gemini.

A place with two sides

So what makes Ebisu fit the profile of a Gemini? It's not because it's moody or likely to change its character on you. Nothing like that. No. It's simply that Ebisu has two clear sides. And as a visitor it's entirely up to you which side you want to visit.

Take the East exit at the station and head towards the luxury end of town. Or, if you prefer, take the West exit for a more earthy and urban feel with local shops and restaurants to have a wander round.

The East side and Yebisu Garden Place

Yebisu Garden Place is made up of two key buildings: Yebisu Garden Tower and the huge Mitsukoshi department store. They're separated by a central walkway which is also home to a lot of outdoor events and celebrations.

Inside Yebisu Garden Tower

Yebisu Garden Tower is where you'll find oodles of luxury shopping and top end restaurants. It's also home to the Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography which, although it's not a big museum, always has some excellent contemporary themes going on. And Yebisu Garden Tower has one more well kept secret...

...It's one of the best places in the city for a great 360 view of the city that's absolutely free. Look for the dedicated lift that takes you straight from the ground, all the way up to floors 38 and 39. It's in a separate place to the lifts that take you to all the other floors so ask one of the security guards if you can't find it. You'll also find that both of these floors is home to many of the restaurants in the Tower. Why not grab a window seat and enjoy the view while you eat lunch or share a romantic dinner?

And then there's Mitsukoshi

Inside Mitsukoshi Department store

There are two departments stores in Japan that are like the Royal Family of shopping. One is Takashimaya. The other is Mitsukoshi. And the Mitsukoshi store in Ebisu is no exception.

If you like investigating food halls when you're on holiday, go down to the basement level and then spend an hour (or two) just wandering around the different stalls. On the ground and upper floors you'll find fashion along with some more traditional Japanese items such as fans, Japanese dolls, and yukatas (the summer style kimono). If you're looking for an extra special souvenir to take home with you, this is a good place to start.

When you've had enough of all that, take some time out and enjoy a coffee or a beer with a big dollop of people watching.

Say hello to the cheeky sparrows

In front of Yebisu Garden Tower and opposite Mitsukoshi, you'll see a small cafe called Benugo. It's a favourite place to stop off for a drop of caffeine if you're feeling tired and need a break. They have an outdoor seating area so, when the sun is shining, you can while away some time watching people go about their daily routine. Just watch out for the sparrows! They are cheeky and used to people so they'll happily hop onto your table and start stealing your food while they think you're looking the other way.

And if you'd prefer something cold and bubbly...

...You're in the right place.

The name of this area of Tokyo actually originates from the company that made it famous: Yebisu Brewery. If you look right from Benugo's, you'll see Yebisu Beer Station right at the foot of the Yebisu Garden Tower. Like Benugo, it also offers outdoor seating. And at lunchtime and in the early evening it's a popular place for local office workers and expats to hang out and relax with friends.

If you're a beer connoisseur, it's possible to visit the brewery itself and sample their wares for a small fee. It's just along the road from Yebisu Garden Place and is clearly signposted so easy to find.

Then, when you've had enough of the high life on the East side of Ebisu, it's time to head over to the West.

The other half of Gemini

The West side of Ebisu doesn't need as much explanation as the East. But that's not because there's nothing to see here. It's just got a different nature. Instead of being high rise modern offices and buildings, this side has a much more local feel to it. It's the hearty downtown part of the area where you'll find smaller restaurants, izakayas (Japanese pubs), cafes and shops.

It's a place to stroll round at your own pace with no particular agenda in mind. There's none of the razzmatazz of the East, but then that's the whole point. This is Ebisu away from the glitz and glamour of Garden Place.

Where did the 'Y' come from?

I know some of you are now wondering why Yebisu Garden Place is spelled with a 'Y' when the name of the area is actually Ebisu. It's not me having a bad spelling day. It's actually a result of the Portuguese influence on the language a couple of hundred years ago.

The original Japanese word Ebisu is spelled without the 'Y.' But the Portuguese found this difficult to pronounce. As a result, they added the 'y' to several Japanese words to make them easier for them to say. Most of the signs you'll see on the East side of the station show the spelling with a 'Y.' But whether you see Ebisu or Yebisu, just know they're one and the same place.

How to get to Ebisu

To get to Ebisu station you need to catch either the Yamanote line train that circles Tokyo, or the Hibiya subway line. Then, when you get to the station, you'll need to decide if you're going East or West.

Going East to Yebisu Garden Place

To get to Yebisu Garden Place you need to follow the Sky Walk which is a series of five moving walkways. If you're arriving on the Yamanote line, look for stairs going up from the platform. Be careful as there are stairs going down as well. You don't want those. Go up the stairs, exit through the ticket gates, and then turn right. The Sky Walk is just ahead of you.

If you come to Ebisu on the Hibiya subway line, when you get off the train follow the signs for the JR exit. When you get to ground level you will see 2 escalators leading up to a building called Atre. Go up and just follow the passage round until you get to the Sky Walk.

Going West to downtown Ebisu

From the Yamanote line, instead of taking the stairs up from the platform, go down. Pass through the ticket gates and you're there. From the Hibiya line, again follow the signs for the JR exit, but when you get to ground level, stop. You are now in the Western district of Ebisu.

Mapping it out

All this can sound a little complicated at first, but working out your routes means you'll have a much more enjoyable time once you arrive in Tokyo. Start by getting your head around the train maps of the city. And by getting your hands on a really good map of Tokyo.

---

Taming Tokyo: The Guidebook

Wouldn't you love to find a guidebook that is just for first-time visitors to Tokyo. Find those all important things that only a local would know like: what to expect at the airport, what Japanese is most useful for a traveler to know, what packing tips are specific for Tokyo, what should you do in an emergency, the basics of using the trains, and much more. Head over to Taming Tokyo today and judge for yourself.